Category Archives: Persian

Noora

persian restaurant columbus ohio

CLOSED:

Cuisine: Persian
8631 Sancus Blvd.
614.844.4444

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Persian food at Polaris – who would’ve imagined?

We’ve made our way up to Noora’s Sancus Rd. location 3 times – the last with a gentleman who just returned from visiting family in Teheran – and each time found something new, interesting, and delicious.

And, each time, we couldn’t resist ordering (and reordering) the joojeh kebab. It’s not a complicated dish – it’s a cornish hen that’s been sectioned and grilled on a skewer – but, man, is it fantastic. The marinade is subtle but appealing, the meat is tender and succulent, and the controlled char puts it over the top. This experience, plus our visits to Jeddo Kebab, have led us to believe that Persian cuisine tends to have an unusually deft hand with poultry.

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Insofar as Jeddo is the only other game in town for Persian food (that we know of) comparisons are inevitable. Noora takes it by a hair in the poultry category, but falls a bit behind on some of the other kebabs. The beef kubideh, for example, was perfectly pleasant but didn’t have quite the harmony of spicing or depth of meat flavor that Jeddo’s version had.

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The apps – mostly dips – varied as well, sometimes even from visit to visit. The mirza ghasemi, a smoked eggplant and tomato spread, had a wonderful smoky flavor, but the texture varied significantly. No matter, though, as it was enjoyable either way. Their hummus was fine, and the kashk bademjan was enjoyable on its own merits but exhibited little of the whey that is intrinsic to the dish.

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The real beauty of the dips is the delicious house made flatbreads that accompany. Towards the back of the dining room a bit of the kitchen projects forward – this area houses the tandoor oven in which Noora bakes the them. They’re wonderfully fragrant, with a crispiness that yields to chewiness, and the flavor ranges somewhere between that of an Indian naan and a saltine cracker.

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Not unlike the joojeh, once we tried the Persian ice cream we couldn’t imagine forgoing it on return visits. Redolent of rosewater and saffron, and topped with crushed pistachio, it’s a rare ice cream surprise in a city that’s just about seen it all on that front. Oddly, on our last visit it came out in a bowl that sat on a plate drizzled with chocolate sauce. The chocolate makes little sense, flavor-wise, with the ice cream, but as it was separate it was easily ignored.

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The space is pleasant and conspicuously clean, and features a raised seating platform where you can sit on provided pillows in lieu of chairs at a low table. Service was solid, if a bit harried when busy, and the management is personable and informative. Entrees range from $10-$20 (there doesn’t appear to be a lunch menu), and apps are generally in the $5 range. Vegetarian and vegan options are available.

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Jeddo Kabab

Cuisine: Persian
2448 Home Acre Dr (off Cleveland Ave, near 270)
http://jeddokabab.com/
614.794.1202
Hours: Mon – Thurs; 11:30am – 9:00pm, Fri & Sat; 11:30am – 10:00pm, Sun; 12:30pm – 8:00pm

Click here to map it!

To the best of our knowledge, Jeddo Kabab is the only Persian restaurant in central Ohio.  Shame that, but if one’s all we get, this’ll do just fine.

Jeddo’s dining room is small, fastidiously well kept, and maintains a small market selection of prepackaged Persian foodstuffs for sale.  Seat yourself if you’re eating in, head to the back counter to place carry out orders.

The menu manages to be, at least for those with some awareness of Middle Eastern cuisine, both familiar and unique.  Falafel and baba ganoush sit next to items like kubideh and kashk o bademgon.

Kashk o bademgon it was, for starters.  This appetizer is described on the menu as ‘a delightful mixture of eggplant, onion, and garlic with traditional whey’.  The photo might not sell it, but your first taste will.  This deliciously rich concoction, served with plenty of pita for dipping, instantly reminded me of an artichoke dip… but better.  A dish that is sure to convert even the most fervent of eggplant haters.

Next, we tried the bahktiari – a platter with chicken kebab (which included grilled vegetables), a ground lamb skewer, salad, and rice.

A quick digression – chicken, for me, is usually an automatic skip… something I tend to think of as a restaurant’s sop to calorie obsessives and the unadventurous.

Suffice it to say, the chicken on the bahktiari was anything but a sop.  It was as tender as properly cooked chicken flesh could possibly be, marinated in a delicious but unidentifiable mix of flavors (that the proprietors were altogether unwilling to divulge), and grilled to perfection. Truly chicken that could compete with lamb.

Which is not to suggest that the lamb was sub-par in any way.  Skewer grilled, and spiced similarly a traditional kefta, this hefty spike of ground meat satisfied completely.

As did it’s beef counterpart, a kubideh, listed as a sandwich and wrapped in a pita.  A large one, too… I’d guess the whole thing measured out at 10″ in length.  Onions, lettuce, and a tahini-esque ‘Jeddo sauce’ complete this tasty package.

We hope it’d be obvious by this point that we highly recommend Jeddo Kabab. Having operated for 8 years and counting (a lifetime in strip mall restaurant years), we’re probably not the only ones.

All of Jeddo Kabab’s offerings are halal.